Mermelada amarga

Seville oranges appear in our shops in January and February when their short season sparks a frenzy of marmalade-making in British homes. Seville orange marmalade is a great Anglo-Spanish commodity and a dependable constituent of the British breakfast.

Seville oranges are a type of bitter orange first brought to Spain from its native China. They are not eaten raw but their inherent tartness makes them ideal for making preserves, most famously marmalade. The plant Citrus aurantium is particularly fragrant and the flowers are used in the production of the essential oil Neroli. The blossoms have often been used in the bouquets of Spanish brides.

These days almost all the bitter oranges grown in southern Spain are destined for British marmalade. The term marmalade is borrowed from the Portuguese original, which was made from quinces. The Portuguese for quince is Marmeto from which Marmelada was made. At the time quinces were hailed for their healing properties. Mary Queen of Scots is thought to have asked for "marmalade pour marie malade" as a cure for seasickness.

Marmalade's reputation as a medicinal cure continued even after the quince was supplanted by the bitter orange. The Seville orange was thought to have a beneficial effect on the digestive tract with the ability to relieve stomach upsets.

The Spanish aren't as wild about marmalade as the British. Mermelada in Spanish will get you any sort of jam; if you want marmalade ask for Mermelada de Naranja but if you want Seville orange marmalade ask for mermelada amarga or sour jam. Much more popular in Spain is something that has more in common with the original quince marmalade known as Membrillo. Membrillo is served as a dessert, traditionally with
Manchego cheese.

Try this medieval recipe for Seville oranges. Just sprinkle the sliced fruit with brown sugar and rum and place them under the grill.