October in Conegliano saw journalists and cameras crowding to a conference
and fair dedicated to the great and noble Italian spirit - of the liquid kind.
La grappa, proudly guarded as a part of the nation's identity by a European
Union regulation and Italian law, has to be made in Italy using Italian grapes.
It is cared for, refined, and appreciated by a whole culture, guided by the
annual Mondo Grappa event.
One legend has it that a Roman Legionnaire was the first to bring equipment
and techniques for distillation from Egypt in the first century. It wasn't until
about 1000 AD that the Scuola Salemitana studied and perfected techniques
for processing the acquavite from the vinacce and balancing the
alcohol content. With basic principles in place, a giddy creativity continued
through the middle ages and into the 1600s with the help of the Jesuits. What
developed was an impressive variety of grappas with unique characteristics
and qualities.
Grappa is made in Lombardia, Veneto, Barolo, Piemonte, Trentino, Friuli,
and Alto Adige. There are four kinds. Grappa giovane is the result of
the first period of distillation and is white and pure. Grappa aromatica
is similar but made from an aromatic grape such as Moscato or Sauvignon. Grappa
invecchiata goes through a further year-long period of ageing in oak, cherry
and chestnut-wood barrels which adds a golden hue. Grappa aromatizzata is
bottled with different kinds of fruit such as blackcurrants and elderberries
to absorb the flavour. This kind is really a drink of the folk, often being
made at home with wild fruit from the mountains and brought out to warm the
chilly months.
Grappa could be translated (but never do!) as a strong brandy, being
40 - 48 % alcohol. It is not drunk with a meal, but often afterwards in the
company of friends who will all have comments on its colour, aroma, and taste.
White grappa is drunk cold and the golden grappa invechiata at
room temperature in a crystal tulipano piccolo without water or ice.
As Mondo Grappa 2003 discusses distillation techniques, vintages, classifications,
protective laws, and production volumes, there will be many a compagnia
around an emptied dinner table throughout Italy with a favourite grappa
in hand for a brindisi and to warm the evening a little more.
To know more visit the grappa museum in Bassano del Grappa or, more easily,
look at the Sommelier website: http://www.sommelier.it/
acquavite - the distillate from grapes
vinacce marc - the crushed grapes for making wine and acquavite
tulipano piccolo - a small, tulip-shaped glass
compagnia - a group of friends
brindisi - a toast
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