When a tortoise is a horse
A Tortoise eyes a She-wolf making a secret pact with a Goose. A Porcupine sizes up a Dragon while a Giraffe tries not to show its nerves to a Panther. The Caterpillar waits. These are the names for just some of the contrade of Siena about to take part in the city's most famous event –the bareback horse race Il Palio. In Piazza del Campo, the citizens and their tourist guests watch the eager snorting horses nosing the starting ropes. This is the only quiet moment of the day.
Dedicated to the Madonna Il Palio di Siena, held twice a year on 2nd July and 16th August, is an Italian tradition which fills a spectacular event with all its history. Mediaeval Siena was split into contrade essential to organize security and defence against neighbouring Firenze. There are now seventeen contrade each with a strong identity proudly displayed with Mediaeval heraldic symbols, costumes, flags and even anthems. They are passionately adhered to; even today there are rumblings when Sienese marriages breech contrade boundaries.
Il Palio, which takes its name from the silk banner given to the victor, is between ten of the seventeen contrade (seven that didn't run on the same date the year before and a lucky three that did). Four days before the race the ancient Piazza del Campo, overlooked by Siena's iconic Torre del Mangia, is covered with earth. The horses are tried out in La Tratta and allotted to the competing contrade. This is as much a political as a sporting event. Professional fantini, already paid handsomely, are tempted into partiti following traditional contrada loyalties and rivalries.
Race day follows the Prova Generale, the last trial of the horses and a night of contrada celebrations. Both fantino and horse are blessed and adorned. Soon after is the Provaccia where the horses are given a final taste of the course around the piazza. Leaving the Palazzo del Governo later in the afternoon, the Corteo Storico, a fantastic procession involving all the colours of the contrada costumes and flags, parades towards Piazza del Campo. Sunto, the Torre del Mangia's bell, sounds as the Palio, affectionately called Drappellone and Cencio, enters the arena on a replica of a captured Florentine war chariot.
The fantini take their nerbi and mount the bare backs of their horses. Last minute partiti are made. Sunto silences. The race is released. Three times around Piazza del Campo with its banking curves, for little more than a minute the urgent cheers of the crowd urge the horses on. It is a battle. Fantini are allowed to push and block others and even use their nerbi against each other, some fall but the horse, considered the true hero of the event, can still win scosso. The first equine nose past the bandierino and the victorious contrada fills the track to celebrate, claim Il Palio, watch their flag being displayed from the Palazzo Pubblico with pride, and sing the traditional il Te Deum.
Last year, Porcupine and Tortoise won. To follow the pre-race politics and get the results of this year's winners, visit Il Palio website from the Comune di Siena
contrade the districts or areas that Siena is split into
fantini jockey
partiti secret pacts
scosso without a jockey
bandierino the small, metal, black-and-white finish flag
Drappellone big drape
Cencio rag
nerbi jockeys' whips
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