If you are gazing down at clouds nudging through mythical valleys, and up at prehistoric fish fossils 3000 metres above sea level, you are probably on an alta via in the Italian Dolomites.
There are 8 alte vie running through Trentino, Alto Adige, and Veneto. They are the result of a long history of people's desire to be amongst a mountain range of ancient coral reefs pushed to its present altitude by the Triasic period. French Geologist, De Dolomieu, provided a name and the details of the limestone rock compositions. Folklore suggests a more traditional and romantic version of history inhabited by dwarves, fairies and dragons. Alta Via n.2 delle Legende from Bressanone to Feltre passes through the Ladino fairy-kingdom of Odle.
Marked by triangles and corresponding numbers, the alte vie, provide access to the Dolomites for the expert alpinisti and the family alike. The organization largely responsible for their development and maintenance is the Club Alpino Italiano that aims to bring the beauty, fascination, and serenity of nature to all. An essential part of this is the havens from the dangers of the mountains – the rifugi.
Usually open from June to the end of September, there are more than 700 rifugi and bivacchi in the Dolomites. Similar to hostels, they range from those basically equipped and small to others which are more like hotels capable of catering for hundreds. Although places need to be booked if staying for the night, there is always space for those in trouble or sheltering from the notoriously changeable Alpine weather. Situated in the most improbable places, each rifugio has its own history of expert construction and hospitality to mountain-goers.
Of course, the rifugio is the best place to experience traditional mountain food. With warmth and company, dishes like salsicce e formaggio, spezzatino di vitello, coniglio, and schiz are accompanied by generous portions of freshly cooked polenta. Stories of the day's walk and routes for the next morning are fuelled by the local variety of grappa.
At dusk, if the sky is clear, the peaks glow a golden-rose against the deepening blue. Even if you don't believe the legenda delle rose, which attributes the phenomenon to a dwarf-king's spell, there is no disputing the magical beauty of the Dolomites. Thanks to the alte vie and the rifugi, these unique mountain experiences are available to everyone.
You can get information about the alte vie, rifugi and special itineries from the excellent Club Alpino Italiano website at: http://www.cai.it
alta via literally 'high way' – a marked route in the Dolomites
rifugi a mountain "hostel'
bivacchi a more rudimentary mountain shelter
alpinisti Alpine mountaineers
legenda delle rose legend of the roses
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