When Germans hear 'Museumsinsel' (museum island), the Museumsinsel Berlin will spring to mind. The five famous museums found on the River Spree in the centre of Berlin, built between 1824 and 1930, represent a very urban approach to museum design, each building reflecting the art it houses.
But there is another 'Museumsinsel' in a different part of Germany, and not too many people have heard about it: the Museumsinsel Hombroich. As a perfect synthesis of art and nature, it is hidden away in a place called Neuss-Holzheim, near the north-western city of Düsseldorf. Nestled in the arms of the river Erft, you will find some remarkable buildings, inhabiting three different landscapes. You start walking through a typical lower Rhine floodplain - lots of water, meadows with gnarled willows, surrounded by beech trees, and in summer an abundance of wild flowers, creating a paradise for muskrats, frogs, wild turtles, herons, swans and ducks as well as a variety of birds and insects. Later, in a far corner of the island, you can find yourself immersed in parklands with huge plane trees, dark yews and cypresses. The light changes completely, and with it the atmosphere. It becomes mystical, an enchanted forest. Gradually it opens up again - towards a lovely terraced garden, meadows and orchards. Exotic and every-day flowers greet you while walking through discreet topiary.
Embedded in these landscapes, like architectural sculptures, are ten pavilion-like buildings, designed by Erwin Heerich in convincing simplicity. First you approach the Tower, with its high walls, brilliant light and two interweaving rooms. Try the marvellous echoes! You might follow the path to the Labyrinth next - go through the tall surrounding hedges and enter the large building with its strict but intentionally confusing symmetry. Its rooms, filled with bright natural light, accommodate a beautifully displayed collection of art from different periods and cultures. The other large building, the 'Große Galerie' (Large Gallery), which you encounter a bit later on top of a hill, has a similarly astonishing combination of old and new works of art to offer. Looking for labels is futile - there are none. Unprompted, you may find yourself in the presence of works by artists like Schwitters, Corinth, Giacometti, Calder, Cezanne, Rembrandt, Klimt and Brancusi - just to name a few. Each building has its very specific charm and atmosphere, just as each part of the landscape has its own magic.
The Museum Island reflects nature in a very literal sense, too. In summer the brightness of the light and the abundance of vegetation and fauna make you walk half a metre above the ground. On a grey winter's day the light might cast a more melancholic spell over you.
At weekends and during the summer special events take place, and you might be able to get a glimpse of 'Kinderinsel Hombroich', designed as a day nursery for up to 20 children, who can explore the island from there. And last but not least you can rest in the cafeteria, which offers very simple food, like delicious breads, potatoes, boiled eggs and some specialities of the area - all included in your entry fee.
Writing about Museum Island Hombroich made me realise that it's true what has been said about this island: impossible to describe - it has to be experienced! It may help to have look at the museums' website www.inselhombroich.de. For those who do not speak German there is a round trip with beautiful pictures on offer. (Click on: 1 Willkommen, 2 Museum Insel Hombroich, 3 Rundgang = round trip).
Five famous museums in Berlin - Altes Museum (Old Museum), with a collection of ancient art works, Neues Museum (New Museum), still under renovation, Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery), with a collection of 19th century art, which has recently reopened after being reconstructed, Pergamonmuseum with the famous Zeus Altar from Pergamon, and Bode Museum, with late classical art, a coin collection, sculptures and a children’s gallery (undergoing renovation).
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