Cologne Special

Cologne, Germany's oldest major city, sits proud and prominent on the banks of the Rhine. The twin spires of its huge cathedral dominate the skyline, providing the flat surrounding countryside with a world-famous landmark. Cologne certainly has its share of well-known museums, historic buildings and monuments. There is the Römisch-Germanisches Museum, for example, which gives an insight into Roman history along the Rhine, and the Museum Ludwig with its impressive collection of 20th century art. Even sweet things have found their way into one of Cologne's museums - the private Imhoff-Stollwerck Museum is devoted entirely to chocolate!

But what Cologne really loves to be is a lively metropolis for art and music. It hosts annual national and international art fairs such as the aptly-named 'Art' in early October, the 'West German Art Exhibition' every spring, and the 'kunstKöln' (artCologne). In September, the city hosts 'Photokina', the world's leading trade fair for the photographic and imaging sector. In 1951, Photokina featured the work of August Sander and the city bought his documentation of pre-war Cologne. Photokina represents the establishment, but the 'Internationale Photoszene Köln' provides a great alternative forum and opportunity for all who wish to engage with the ongoing question of whether photography is an art form or not. It enriches the city every autumn with up to 100 photographic exhibitions and events - in conventional exhibition spaces, in public squares, but also in places like cafes and launderettes!

So much for art. There is music in Cologne wherever you go, too. The city prides itself on catering for every taste - from classic perfomances in the Philharmonic Orchestra auditorium to 'Saturday night fever' in the Musical Dome. Highlight of the year for the younger generation is 'popkomm', an impressive festival of concerts, conferences and trade shows along the inner ring road, which takes over the city every August.

One step further, towards the edge of the city centre, is another special feature of Cologne (though it may not be in the official guide books), which is just that little bit different. It is a unique venue, called simply 'Stadtgarten', because it is located in one of the oldest parks of Cologne, the Stadtgarten. It offers the breathtaking combination of a concert hall, a night club, recording studios, a café/restaurant and a Biergarten. In the seventies and eighties it became a stronghold of jazz, attracting international stars like Al di Meola, Egberto Gismonti, Cassandra Wilson and Charlie Haden. At the same time it offers talented young musicians the chance to perform in front of a critical yet enthusiastic audience. Even the mafia is here, fortunately in a very special edition - the Kölner Saxophon Mafia. This all saxophone band started its musical career 20 years ago in the Stadtgarten and moved on to many international jazz festivals, from nearby Moers to Montreal and Zürich, playing free jazz, including traditional rhythms as well as electronic music and sound experiments, all spiced with lots of improvisation and a great sense of humour! Last but not least—what turns the Stadtgarten into something really special in my view—is its inclusive approach. Poetry, literature and political discussions are welcome, as are parties and popkomm events. Get the program at: www.stadtgarten.de/Konzertsaal.htm.

August Sander, one of Germany’s most famous photographers, was born in a small town near Cologne in 1889. His best known photographs are very intense portraits of the German people of all classes and occupations. He was the subject of a major retrospective at London’s National Portrait Gallery in 1997.