Les armallis de la Gruyère

The armallis are among the most well-known emblems of Swiss culture: men in white shirts and blue or black costumes embroidered with edelweiss. As one of the country's traditional images they have been extensively used in advertising and postcards and this is where most people outside Switzerland might have spotted them. But in spite of their rural old-fashioned look the armallis represent a still lively and very popular Swiss tradition and they are the pride of the cheese-making Gruyère region.

An armalli is an owner of a traditional cheese-making farm in the Swiss Alps. He – for it is an exclusively masculine profession – usually has a large herd of cows for which he cares most devotedly. Every spring, the armallis and their bouébos (young assistants) lead the herds to the green mountain pastures; this impressive procession of men in their best bredzon (traditional clothes) and their cows decorated with flowers and wearing huge bells is called la montée à l'alpage or la poya in patois. But the poya is not just a procession, it is a real festival, and the whole region enthusiastically gathers in several villages to celebrate the tradition with the proud armallis.

During the whole estivage (summer season) the armallis stay in the mountains away from their families, to look after their animals and to produce cheese. In October, they bring the herds back down to the winter barns in the villages. The armallis' return from the Alps, la désalpe or rindya, is also the pretext for very popular celebrations in which everyone, local or tourist, is welcome to take part.

These autumn celebrations usually coincide with the Fêtes de la Bénichon. Originally called the bénission (day of the blessing) this celebration was the anniversary of the dedication of the local parish church. But, through the years, it has become associated with the armallis' return from the mountains and with the end of the harvest. As a sign of the armallis' (former) wealth an enormous ceremonial meal is prepared in the numerous farm homes that still follow the tradition. Many tourists with a hearty appetite come every year to enjoy this gargantuan feast. The meal consists of several courses offering the best of the region. It always begins with a cuchaule, a large saffron-scented brioche served with the moutarde de Bénichon, not ordinary mustard, but a thick condiment made with wine, spices, sugar, and flour. After this comes the soup, followed by at least three courses of meat, all served with large quantities of vegetables, then cheese and, last but not least, the sweets among which are the famous meringue shells with Gruyère double cream.

After each celebration the armallis usually gather to pray and sing popular songs, often in the regional patois. Their most famous tune, often played on the alpenhorn, is called Lyoba in patois or le Ranz des vaches (the procession of the cows) in Swiss French. The armallis use this song to tell their assistants to bring the cattle back to the farm. There are many regional variations of the Lyoba and prestigious composers such as Beethoven, Berlioz, and Rossini have adapted it for their works.

The armallis and their families are one of the last communities to retain the patois of the Gruyère region. But, sadly the traditions they represent, and their language, are slowly disappearing. Their economic situation has become increasingly insecure and their numbers have consequently decreased. The fall of the price of milk together with foot-and-mouth disease has endangered the existence of their small alpine farms, and the price at which they now have to sell their traditionally-made cheese is no longer proportional to the time, effort and passion that go into their work. The younger generations don't want to give up the comfort of a modern house for the Spartan conditions of life in the mountains and be away from their families almost five months every year but, mostly, they no longer want to work so hard for so little money. Without the government grants they receive or the (much-criticized) use of traditional folklore by the tourist industry the armallis would nowadays no longer be able to survive on their incomes.